A sweatshirt is a fashionable item of outerwear made of medium-density material (jersey, angora, boucle), which differs from a sweater in its production technology and the ability to apply various patterns (prints) to the product.
A sweatshirt is usually sewn from knitted fabric using sewing equipment, unlike a knitted sweater. As a rule, such a light raglan does not have a collar, its neck is processed with a facing made of a more elastic material, or the main fabric of the product. A stylish women's sweatshirt is a universal and comfortable item that can complement any casual look.
You can sew a women's sweatshirt yourself using a pattern selected according to size, even without having experience in making clothes. The variety of sweatshirt models allows you to choose the right option for women of different builds, and use them as sportswear, office or home wear.
Depending on the chosen pattern, the sweatshirt can be:
- fitted with set-in sleeves;
- with raglan sleeve;
- with a hood;
- oversized style;
- with dropped shoulder.
Combining styles allows you to create original options, and the ability to use different types of fabrics makes this clothing universal for both summer walks and for use in the cold season.
Good fabrics for a sweatshirt
A sweatshirt for women, the pattern of which has already been selected, can be sewn from different fabrics, depending on the purpose of the clothing.
| Material (fabric) for the product | Suitable models | Purpose of the sweatshirt |
| Three-thread fleece with fleece or looped |
| Sports products for walks in cool weather |
| Two-thread footer | Suitable for any model, depending on the print | Lightweight sports sweatshirts, options for walks and visiting friends |
| Angora | Fitted models with set-in sleeves or raglan, with open shoulders | Office version of the product, sweatshirt for going out |
| Fleece | Straight or fitted with any type of sleeve | As an undergarment in cold weather, sportswear |
| Knitted stockinette and interlock | Any model | Pajamas, summer clothes, home clothes |
| Ribana/Kashkorse | All | Necessary for finishing the bottom, sleeves and neckline, are an alternative to finishing with the main fabric |
What to sew a sweatshirt on, cutting rules
There are different ways to sew a quality sweatshirt: using several types of household appliances or using one sewing machine. The best way is to sew all the seams using an overlock and process the cuffs and neckline piping with a cover stitch machine.
When sewing on a regular sewing machine, you need to use several types of stitches:
- straight stitch;
- zig-zag stitch for all open edges to prevent the knitwear from unraveling and the sweatshirt from deforming;
- Double needle stitch for finishing the neckline, cuffs and bottom of the garment.
The product must be cut strictly along the grain line. It is located along the length of the fabric, from top to bottom. If the pattern is laid out across the fabric, the product will be deformed after the first wash and it will be impossible to fix it.
It is important to remember that when sewing any product, each seam must be carefully ironed immediately after stitching. This will make sewing easier and give the sweatshirt a finished look.
DIY Women's Sweatshirt. Simple Option
A women's sweatshirt, the pattern of which consists of a back, a shelf, sleeves and facing details, is the easiest to sew, especially for beginners. Straight lines, the absence of additional details and complex elements make this option optimal for beginners and those who need a simple but stylish product.
Pattern with explanations
The pattern for a simple sweatshirt includes 6 parts:
- The back of the product, in the middle of which there is a fold. This piece is applied to a piece of knitwear folded in half; the center line should be located at the fold of the fabric and fit tightly to it.
- Shelf or front part, which must be cut out in the same way as the back.
- Sleeve of the product. It is important to consider that the pieces need to be cut in mirror image, as the front and back of the sleeve are significantly different. It is essential to transfer the marks from the pattern to the fabric to correctly match the pieces.
- Neckline facing. One piece is cut with a fold, depending on preferences, its width can be slightly increased. For warm fabrics, ribana or kashkorse is used, for thin fabrics - as desired.
- Sleeve cuff. Two pieces with a fold, for thick fabrics it is recommended to cut from rib knit or ribana.
- Bottom cuff. One piece with a fold, the width can vary depending on the wishes of the future owner.
All pieces must be cut with mandatory seam allowances, the width of which is 5-7 mm.
Stitching the back and front
The first step in making a sweatshirt is joining the shoulder seams.
The back and the front need to be placed face to face, the shoulder cuts need to be connected and sewn together: the right cut of the front with the right cut of the back, the left ones by analogy. The result will be a single piece with a cutout for the head.
Side and sleeve seam
The second stage is sewing the sleeve into the armhole. Having connected the marks on the details of the shelf, back and sleeve, it is necessary to carefully pin them to avoid shifting the fabric during sewing. The front part of the sleeve cap is combined with the top of the side cut of the shelf, and the back part is combined with the back. The details should be sewn carefully, evenly distributing the sleeve cap along the armhole.
Next, you need to fold the sweatshirt the way it will look when finished, matching the side cuts and open sleeve cuts. Carefully pin it from the beginning of the sleeve through the armpit area and ending at the bottom of the garment.
This part of the sweatshirt is sewn with one seam; in the fold area, you need to try to align the cuts as much as possible into one line.
Sewing on the bottom strip
Before sewing the bottom strip to the garment, it must be sewn into a ring. To do this, the short edges are placed face to face and stitched. Next, the cuff is folded in half with the right side outward and placed into the sweatshirt turned inside out so that its open edges match the open edge of the garment's bottom.
Even pinning will allow the placket to be sewn neatly.
Sewing a cuff to a sweatshirt
The sleeve cuff is sewn on in the same way as the bottom one, completely repeating the algorithm of actions.
When sewing it in, it needs to be stretched slightly so that its edges are the same as the edges of the sleeves. The width is different because in the finished product, the cuffs should narrow the product at the wrist.
Sewing the neckline to the sweatshirt
Sewing in the neckline is the most important stage; to ensure a neat finish, it is recommended to baste it by hand first.
Sewing takes place in several stages:
- The neck facing is sewn into a ring, after which it is folded in half with the right side facing out;
- The ring is divided into 4 equal parts, on the borders of which marks must be made, these will be the alignment lines for uniform distribution.
The facing is placed inside the garment, the open edges are aligned with the neckline, and the marks are aligned:
- ring stitching with the middle of the back;
- the opposite mark is in the middle of the shelf;
- side marks with shoulder seams.
Stretching the facing evenly, it must be sewn to the neck of the product. For a more accurate execution, the neck seam can be processed with a double needle on the back piece to give the product a finished look.
Sweatshirt with a hood
A sweatshirt with a hood is a sporty option, and the hood can also serve a decorative function. Depending on the fabric chosen, a drawstring can be threaded into the hood, adding a finished look to the product, or a contrasting edging can be made.
Pattern with explanations
The pattern for a sweatshirt with dropped shoulders and a hood consists of 8 pieces:
- back and front with a fold line in the center;
- sleeve, you need to cut out 2 pieces;
- hood, you need to cut out 2 pieces;
- hood facing with a fold;
- cuff of the front and back parts of the bottom of the product, it is recommended to cut it from ribbing;
- sleeve cuffs, it is recommended to cut them from ribbing.
When cutting, it is important to transfer all marks from the pattern to the knitwear, they will need to be aligned so that the edges of the pieces fit together smoothly during sewing. The pattern already has seam allowances, so there is no need to make any additional indents.
Stitching the back and front
The first stage is stitching the shoulder seams of the front and back of the product, for this the parts are folded face to face, the shoulder cuts are combined. Having previously pinned them with pins, it is necessary to sew the right and left sides.
Side and sleeve seam
The sleeve in this model should be sewn in with special care, aligning all the existing marks on the details of the shelf, back and sleeve cap. If you have little sewing experience, you need to baste the details by hand before sewing on the machine.
After sewing the sleeve, the sweatshirt is folded inside out, the open edges are aligned, and the seam is basted from the bottom of the sleeve to the bottom of the garment. It is important that the places where the sleeve is connected to the front and back coincide, otherwise one of the parts will be longer.
Sewing on the bottom strip
The two parts of the bottom strip are connected together and folded in half with the right side facing out, after which, evenly stretching, the cuff must be sewn to the bottom of the sweatshirt.
To do this, you should put the cuff inside the sweatshirt, placing the open edges to the bottom face to face. The side seams of the product should match the seams of the connection of the parts of the bar, and uniform tension during stitching allows you to make the seam neat and even.
Sewing a cuff to a sweatshirt
The sleeve cuff in this model is significantly narrower than the sleeve itself, so before sewing it must be basted, stretching it along the width of the bottom. Having connected the ends of the cuff into a ring, it should be folded in half, with the right side out.
The cuff is placed into the sleeve, the open edges are aligned, after which it can be sewn on.
Sewing a hood onto a sweatshirt
The hood, consisting of two parts, must be joined together. To do this, the pieces are placed face to face, pinned and stitched along the outer edge. The facing is folded in half horizontally, face out, and then evenly distributed over the open side of the hood, face to face.
After sewing on the facing, the hood is sewn into the neck in several stages:
- the sweatshirt is turned inside out;
- the hood is turned inside out;
- the hood is placed into the sweatshirt face to face, and the back seam on the hood should coincide with the center of the back;
- the bottom of the hood is evenly connected to the neck, without tension;
- from the side of the shelf the hood overlaps, the front parts slightly overlap each other;
- The hood is sewn in a circle, starting from the back.
After turning the product inside out, it looks neat, all seams are inside, there is no need for additional processing. If desired, you can process the place where the cuff is sewn on the bottom and the hood facing with a double needle.
Oversized sweatshirt
A women's sweatshirt, the pattern of which is especially popular - oversize. Such a product has straight lines on the sides, and a loose cut allows you to hide figure flaws.
Pattern with explanations
The pattern consists of 6 parts:
- shelf and back details with a fold;
- a sleeve detail that must be cut out in two copies, mirror image;
- details of the sleeve cuffs and the bottom of the product;
- a hood that can be replaced with a regular facing if desired.
When cutting, do not forget about the direction of the grain line; the fabric should be placed strictly along the canvas.
Stitching the back and front
The back and the front are folded face to face, the shoulder seams are matched and sewn using an overlock or sewing machine. It is necessary to pin the parts first to achieve an exact match of the cuts of the two halves.
Side and sleeve seam
Thanks to the dropped shoulder seam, sewing in the sleeve is easy; it must be applied to the straightened workpiece face to face, aligning the center of the sleeve with the shoulder seam, and the edges with the beginning of the armhole on the back and the shelf. The parts are sewn together with a straight line.
The workpiece is folded with the front side inward, pinned from the beginning of the sleeve to the bottom of the sweatshirt. It is especially often necessary to pin or baste in the area of the turn from the sleeve to the side part so that the fabric does not bunch up when sewing. One line is laid on each side.
Sewing on the bottom strip
The bottom strip is sewn into a ring and folded in half, placed inside the product towards the open edge and sewn to the sweatshirt with uniform tension.
Sewing a cuff to a sweatshirt
The sleeve cuff is sewn in the same way as the bottom: sewn into a ring, folded in half and placed inside, matching the open edges. The cuff must be basted, stretched to the width of the sleeve, and then sewn on the machine.
Sewing a neckline or hood to a sweatshirt
Depending on the selected top, the sewing method differs:
- The hood pieces are folded together and sewn together, after which the hood is turned right side out and placed into the sweatshirt.
The back seam on the hood coincides with the center of the back, evenly distributing the open cut with the neck, the hood is sewn to the product. The open cut of the hood is folded by 1.5 cm and stitched with a double needle.
- Neck facing. Cut out a rectangle, the width of which is 5 cm, and the length is equal to the circumference of the neck, multiplied by 0.8. The facing is folded in half and inserted into the product, the combined open cuts are sewn together, while the facing piece is evenly stretched across the width of the product.
Off-shoulder sweatshirt
Models with dropped shoulders are sewn from lightweight fabrics, they do not require cuffs and the finished product looks light and elegant. The connection of the parts is completely similar to a simple sweatshirt and will not cause difficulties even for beginners.
Pattern with explanations
To get a sweatshirt pattern with dropped shoulders, you need to adjust the oversized model pattern.
Step by step:
- in the center of the shelf, step back 1.5 cm from the neck and make a mark;
- on the shoulder seam, step back 3 cm from the neckline and make a mark;
- smoothly connect the marks to create a line similar to the neckline;
- in the center of the back, step back 1 cm from the neckline and make a mark;
- place a mark on the shoulder seam in the same way as on the shelf;
- connect marks smoothly
- exclude the hood from the pattern.
A new neckline has been created, thanks to which the sweatshirt will bare one of the shoulders. The facing of such a neckline depends on the chosen fabric, in some cases it is not necessary, the product looks finished with an open cut. At the bottom of the product and the sleeves, it is necessary to add 2 cm for the hem.
Stitching the back and front
Stitching begins with joining the open shoulder cuts of the back and front, which must be placed face to face.
Before sewing with a machine, pin the pieces together.
Side and sleeve seam
The sleeve is sewn into the open armhole:
- the front part of the sleeve is applied to the front piece and pinned;
- the back part is pinned to the back;
- the central mark is aligned with the shoulder seam and secured with a pin;
- By stretching the armhole evenly, the sleeve is sewn into it using an overlock or sewing machine.
The side seams and sleeves are connected with one line; to do this, you need to sweep the open edges from the bottom of the sleeve to the bottom of the sweatshirt, lay them out in a straight line and sew them together.
Processing of the bottom and sleeves
To prevent open edges from fraying, they need to be processed with an overlock or a zig-zag stitch.
After this, the bottom is folded over by 2 cm and stitched with a double needle, while making sure that there is no tension on the fabric.
Sewing the neckline to the sweatshirt
The need for a neckline facing depends on personal preference; it can be made from the same fabric as the garment or from ribbing, and lace can also be used.
The length of the facing is calculated depending on the selected material:
- the rib facing for a wide neck is equal to the length of the neck itself, multiplied by 0.85;
- the facing made of the product fabric differs slightly from the width of the neckline, it is enough to multiply the length of the open cut by 0.9 to get a sufficient fit;
- The calculation of lace for piping depends on its elasticity and is selected individually.
The facing piece, folded in half, is inserted into the garment with the open edge towards the neckline, evenly distributed and pinned, after which it is sewn on.
Sweatshirt with raglan sleeves
A women's sweatshirt, the pattern of which takes into account the features of the figure and emphasizes its advantages, will fit the figure especially well.
The raglan sleeve will suit women with broad shoulders, smoothing them out a bit, as well as anyone who prefers this style of clothing.
Pattern with explanations
The pattern consists of 7 parts:
- shelf and back with a fold in the center;
- sleeve – 2 pieces;
- neck facing;
- cuffs of sleeves and bottom.
When cutting, you need to add seam allowances of 0.5-0.7 mm, as well as an allowance for hemming the product at the bottom and on the sleeves. This sweatshirt is sewn without cuffs, so the processing of the bottom and sleeves will be due to the left allowance, at least 2 cm wide.
Sewing the main parts and sleeves
Sewing a sweatshirt with a raglan sleeve differs from the classic model; first of all, the sleeve parts are connected to the back and front parts.
To do this, you need to perform two steps:
- Take the sleeve piece and pin it with the short side to the front piece. After the cuts are evenly distributed, the pieces are sewn together, and the same is repeated with the second sleeve.
- The long sides of the sleeve cap are joined to the back piece, pinned to avoid uneven tension when sewing, and stitched.
- The same with the second sleeve.
The resulting blank is folded into a finished product with the wrong side out, and secured with pins or basted with a needle from the bottom of the sleeve to the bottom of the product, passing through the place where the sleeve is connected to the main parts.
Sewn with one line, and the place where the parts are connected must be aligned as much as possible into one line.
Sewing the neckline to the sweatshirt
The neck facing is sewn into a ring and folded in half, with the right side facing out. The piece is placed inside the sweatshirt, to its right side, with the open edge facing the neck.
It is necessary to stretch the facing piece evenly along the neckline to avoid unnecessary folds and creases in the fabric, and then pin it. The pieces are sewn together with a slight tension on the facing, starting from the middle of the back.
Processing of the bottom of the sleeves and the product
The cuffs are sewn into a ring and placed inside the garment, the sleeve cuff is placed inside the sleeve, and the bottom cuff is placed along the bottom edge. By stretching evenly, the cuffs are connected to the open edge, pinned and sewn on with slight tension.
If desired, you can additionally process the seam with a double needle to give the product a finished look. Regardless of the sweatshirt model, original prints will help make the product unique.
You can decorate a women's sweatshirt, sewn according to a pattern, with a picture in different ways:
- Thermal transfer application – a film image that is transferred using an iron and remains on the fabric. This option is suitable for any fabric and lasts a long time.
- Sublimation. To apply it, you need a synthetic fabric, fleece will do. When ironed, the image is eaten into the fibers of the fabric.
- A ready-made coupon with the image you like, printed on the desired knitwear. In this case, it is enough to cut out the product and sew it.
A women's sweatshirt, the pattern of which has already been found, can be made into a unique item by combining different colors in it: the popular "color block" technique allows you to combine 2-3 colors of fabric, modeling details from triangles and diamonds of different shades.
Video about sewing a sweatshirt
Women's sweatshirt. Pattern: