Off the shoulders in clothes emphasize femininity and attractiveness. Dresses with such a feature, complemented by sleeves, are popular among girls going to important events. They add tenderness and charm to the image. On the one hand, they reveal the body, but on the other, they retain a mystery.
Features of the cut of a dress with open shoulders and sleeves
Depending on the style and material used, the correct pattern is selected.
The following features are taken into account:
- fabric stretchability. For the cut, sketches without darts are selected, since the dress will stretch and fit the figure perfectly;
- stretchability of the upper material if the dress is sewn with a cover. Both options must match, either stretch or not stretch. The cut is different for everyone;
- material consumption. With a standard cut and material width of 140 cm, you will need 90-150 cm of fabric (depending on the age and size of the woman for whom it is being sewn, and the length of the dress);
- villi. When working with velvet and similar materials, it is important that the pile is directed upwards. This is taken into account when cutting each detail. Otherwise, the dress will rise under outerwear;
- clasps. If there are zippers, this is taken into account when cutting. Other fasteners are not considered when creating a pattern.
If a ready-made pattern is used, it needs to be redrawn to fit the girl's parameters. It is impossible to find a perfectly matching cut, so the seamstress transfers the features to paper.
Who is it suitable for?
A dress with open shoulders and sleeves is an almost universal item that suits everyone. There are many different styles that will harmoniously complement any image. You can read a brief instruction on choosing a suitable style for your figure and age in the table below.
| Where to wear | Features of the style | Sewing material | For what figure | For what age |
| Beach, summer party with friends, walk in the park | Loose fit. May have flounces or ruffles. Bright color. | Light chiffon or cotton | Given the loose cut, it will suit any figure. | Up to 35-40 years. At an older age, more formal styles are chosen. |
| Date, daytime meeting with friends or colleagues | Peasant style | A wide variety of materials are suitable for sewing. | Not recommended for those with broad and massive shoulders, as it will highlight this figure flaw. | Universal style. With the right choice of material, it will suit any age. |
| Office, work clothes | Sheath style with closed knees made of dark matte materials. | Any material that does not stretch holds a given shape. | Suitable for everyone | Suitable for everyone, but the strict style adds age. |
| Summer Night Party | Kimono or tunic style | Denim or guipure fabric | Suitable for slim girls | Only suitable for young girls under 35. |
Season and Purpose
The purpose of clothing is determined by its style. The more the upper part of the body is exposed, the simpler the event should be. In strict versions, small cutouts are made in the cut in the shoulder area so as not to spoil the image.
Dresses with open shoulders are not suitable for the winter season. The exceptions are parties in warm rooms. Such outfits are mainly worn in the summer. For the spring-autumn season, items complemented by fur or wool capes made in the same style or color scheme as the dress are suitable.
Material
You need to be careful when choosing materials. Some fabrics are not suitable for the desired style, add or remove age, emphasize or mask flaws. Designers advise not to focus on fashion trends, but to take into account individual characteristics when choosing.
Fashionable materials in 2020-2021 are:
- lace. Such fabrics look cute only on young girls. Older women should avoid them. Such products make you look younger, but too much so that it looks ridiculous and comical;
- cotton. There are plenty of options for this material. It is considered universal, as it suits any style and age. These are natural fabrics, so you can sew dresses for little girls from them;
- chiffon. This fabric is combined with other materials because it is transparent. Usually a guipure or silk dress is made, and a cape is made of chiffon;
- knitted. These dresses sit precisely on the figure, so they are not suitable for women with imperfections. They also do not create elegant images, so they are used for everyday life. For evening events, it is better to choose other fabrics.
Dress and sleeve length
Designers offer different length options, all of which will be relevant.
For evening events, dresses with long hems or trains and sleeves are chosen. For everyday wear or a friendly party, mini and midi dresses with short sleeves are suitable.
Current colors
In the 2020-2021 season, bright and saturated shades will be fashionable. Designers create delicate images using airy styles. And the shades are chosen aggressively. But in fashion collections there are also less flashy colors.
At the peak of fashion in the coming season:
- aggressive colors combined with mini and midi dresses;
- delicate colors combined with long dresses and sleeves (or ¾);
- dresses with small prints - polka dots, small geometric shapes, checkered patterns;
- horizontal and vertical stripes;
- floral prints. The main feature is 1 large accent (for example, a large flower on the back) and many small ones.
Popular styles
Fashion designers are democratic in their selection of styles. They offer many options.
But most often in collections you will find:
- shirt dresses. Popular use: beach parties or city walks;
- trapezoids. An excellent choice for girls and women whose figure does not look its best;
- long sundresses. Thanks to the professional decoration of this style, the sundresses do not look simple and are suitable even for important events;
- with full skirts. This is a youth format that does not restrict movement;
- year. It is very similar to the mermaid style and is perfect for an evening event.
Taking measurements to construct a pattern
The main stage of pattern construction is taking measurements. Beginners download patterns from the Internet, it is convenient when sewing any products. But you can’t use them as is. You need to take measurements individually each time, because otherwise the dress will not fit the figure and look beautiful in the image. To construct a pattern for a dress with open shoulders, measurements are taken.
The samples contain abbreviations that are not clear to ordinary users:
- POgI – half-girth of the chest (in half-girths, ½ of the value is used everywhere). It is taken along the lower line of the shoulder blades, passes under the armpit and is raised over the chest;
- POgII – the second half-girth of the chest. The first point remains the same, the front one goes along the line of the mammary glands;
- Sweat - half waist circumference;
- POb – half hip circumference. Measured along the most prominent line of the hips;
- ПШг – half-girth of the chest width. Measured horizontally under the mammary glands and up to the armpits;
- PShs – half-girth of the back width. The width of the back is measured from the armpits on the back side;
- Шп – shoulder width. Even though the dress will be off-shoulder, this measurement will be needed for a comfortable cut of the sleeves;
- Ds – back length. Measured from the projected shoulder seam to the waist;
- Dpt – front length to waist. Measured from the projected shoulder seam to the waist;
- Di – length of the product. Measured from the waist to the desired length of the dress;
- Or and Oz – arm and wrist circumferences respectively. Measured for sleeve cutting, if they are planned in the product.
Also, in some styles, the value of ШВ – the width of the frill – will be useful.
Pattern making and sewing a dress with open shoulders and sleeves. Step-by-step description
Working with patterns consists of several stages:
- A sample is selected. It can be taken from modeling magazines.
- The sample has the markings discussed earlier in the article. They are used to take measurements.
- They draw a pattern based on the sample, but with updated dimensions for each piece.
- Cut out the pattern.
Experienced seamstresses always use the same template. The correct cut is created by transferring the required dimensions directly onto the material. But beginners are better off first creating a full-fledged pattern, and then proceeding to cutting out the dress parts on the fabric.
Summer option
Summer sundresses with open shoulders not only look beautiful, but are also the best options for the hot season. Young girls can choose a minimal length with small sleeves and a completely open neckline. This option will require very little elastic stretch fabric.
To prevent the dress from looking simple, follow these tips:
- choose delicate but bright shades, for example, pink or light green;
- a quality leather belt is chosen to match the color of the dress. If the dress is pink, the belt should be red or burgundy, if light green - green, if light blue - blue;
- when cutting out the pattern, inserts are made at the waist to put the belt through. They must match the size, so cutting out begins after purchasing the belt;
- If there is no pattern or design on the fabric, the upper part is decorated with lace material. The same pattern is used to cut the upper part as for the base;
- The top lace piece can be cut like a shirt, so you can take it off or put it on as needed.
Elasticated style
A dress with open shoulders and elasticated sleeves is one of the simplest styles. It is made with 2 side seams, the waist is pulled in with a belt. Therefore, you can use non-stretch fabric when sewing. The ideal length option in the style is 55 cm from the waist. Then the dress slightly reveals the knees due to its splendor.
Tips for cutting and sewing:
- It is better to choose natural cotton fabrics. The outfit is designed for summer, and such materials allow air to pass through better, minimizing discomfort in the heat;
- the back and front are cut according to the same pattern, a little fabric is added to the front depending on the volume of the chest;
- from ready-made patterns, darts are transferred from the upper part to the waist area - this way it is better emphasized;
- an allowance of 2-3 cm is made on all sides of the pattern for seams;
- to decorate the frill, ready-made ribbons are used, they reduce the time spent on sewing;
- To make the skirt more voluminous, the hem is made with a notch where a strong but not heavy fishing line is threaded. It holds its shape and waviness;
- The elastic on the shoulders should be tight. It is necessary to leave a notch to change it when stretched, maintaining the beauty and comfort of wearing.
The style uses a belt. You can make it yourself from leftover material or buy a ready-made product in the color of the dress. The tone should be chosen darker for emphasis. The Asian house Artka is traditionally considered the trendsetter in terms of dresses with elastic.
Shuttlecocks
In the coming season, the dress with flounces is in many designer collections. Such world designers as Jean Paul Gaultier (France), Valentino Garavani (Italy) or Calvin Klein (America) use flounces, and dresses, blouses with open shoulders in general.
A dress with flounces can be sewn of any length, but maxi styles are considered fashionable. Also, according to the latest trends, shapeless models are selected, not fitted.
When cutting and sewing, follow these tips:
- For fitted models, choose a fabric that stretches at least a little. For shapeless models, a material without stretch properties is better;
- flounces are not necessarily located on the neckline of the dress. They can be made at the end of the sleeves, on the hem, or used as decorative elements on one side of the skirt;
- The flounces can be gathered at the bottom with an elastic band, then they turn out closed and airy. This does not affect the cut, an elastic band is simply inserted into the lower part of the sleeve.
A dress with flounces looks beautiful and unusual, but only with one open shoulder. This is a model with a slanted neckline. In order not to overload the image, you cannot use flounces on the top and bottom. If they are paired, they are located on the sleeves. Single and long ones - on the hem. There should not be several flounces.
Long sleeves
When choosing a style with long sleeves, a deep neckline is a must. But Barbara Casasola offers strict outfits in the coming season. Only she has a collection for older women who cannot bare their neckline because the skin no longer looks perfect.
Dresses with long sleeves look better if the length is to the floor. But Dolce & Gabbana presented mini models in the new collection. The sleeves are made of lace transparent fabrics, and the base is dense. These products are suitable for young girls. The cut and sewing are guided by patterns edited according to individual parameters and instructions.
Flashlights
A dress with lanterns is an interesting style that is chosen by girls with a small bust. It is very easy to sew.
For this, a pattern for a dress with flounces on long sleeves is taken. But in this case, the sleeves are cut much wider and longer, so that after they are caught with elastic bands, they look airy and stand out against the background of the other details of the dress.
Shirt dress
A shirt dress is a great option for summer and the beach. It can be made in any length. The sleeves can also be short, ¾ or to the wrist.
The cut is simple, you can do without a pattern sample:
- They take a shirt and fold it in half.
- Outline the upper part of the front.
- Cut lower according to the planned length of the dress.
- Outline the upper part of the back side and cut it down the length.
After the details are cut out, assembled on the machine. For additional decoration, you can choose bright beautiful buttons that are darker in tone than the base of the dress.
The style looks beautiful if you choose a fabric with lines or a floral print. If working with darts is difficult, you can do without them. The straight cut is fitted with a textile belt. This way you can hide small figure flaws.
Model with a fluffy skirt
A dress with open shoulders and arms, complemented by a fluffy skirt, is more convenient to sew separately.
The top and bottom are cut using different patterns. Then the pieces are connected at the waist, and complemented with a belt or chain. To add volume to the skirt, you can use petticoats. There are no strict requirements for its cut and sewing, so even beginners without experience can handle the job.
Sheath dress
The sheath style looks more impressive if the model is mini. It got its name because it fits the figure and sits on it completely. Therefore, elastic and stretchy materials are chosen for sewing.
Despite the apparent complexity, the pattern can be prepared without a sample:
- Draw a rectangle that is formed by a rounded line in the shoulder area.
- They draw darts. They make them smaller on the back and larger on the front, so that they fit well on the chest.
- Darts are drawn from the front to the armpit area.
- The armhole of the neckline is drawn. It can be made pointed or smooth, as desired.
- The waist area is narrowed, then widened for the hips.
- The pattern ends with drawing the required length.
If the fabric does not stretch, you will need to sew a zipper into the back. Otherwise, the sheath will not fit tightly. The details are sewn together. If desired, the dress can be decorated with textile ornaments.
Evening model to the floor
Dresses with open shoulders and maxi sleeves are a classic evening dress. They are sewn for specific occasions, often worn only once in a lifetime. Open shoulders add femininity and a certain royalty to the image, so they will not go unnoticed at a party. This style will not suit short girls, unless they plan to combine it with high-heeled shoes.
Simple straight dresses are easy to cut. They are the best place to start learning the intricacies of cutting and sewing. If you need unique items for an important event, it is better to entrust the task to a specialist.
Wedding dress
Nothing refreshes the image of the bride more than a fitted long dress with open shoulders. It emphasizes the face, accentuates the shoulder line and hairstyle. To achieve this, all the details located above the neckline need to look perfect.
Wedding dresses are traditionally made of white flowing materials, and may be complemented with lace trim or flounces. There are no patterns for a simple dress for a wedding event, all the styles are complex and intricate. Therefore, beginners should not work with such projects.
What to wear with
A dress with open shoulders and sleeves looks beautiful without decorations or additional decorative elements. But there are still certain requirements for the combination.
Accessories
Accessories are selected depending on the style. When the model is fitted, a belt or chain in the same tone is required. You can choose an option that differs in style and color, but then it should match the bag or shoes. The bag is chosen inversely proportional to the size of the dress. Miniature clutches are suitable for long styles, and large beach bags are suitable for short ones.
Some recommendations for choosing jewelry:
- earrings hanging in clusters are a universal option that suits any style of off-the-shoulder dress;
- massive jewelry looks appropriate with ankle-length dresses (or with a train);
- jewelry with stones goes well with a sheath dress or business attire;
- Wooden beads match the peasant dress.
When the shoulders are open and the sleeves are puffy, as is the skirt, there is no need to wear jewelry. This style itself looks pretentious, so the rest of the accessories should be simple or completely absent.
Shoes
The most piquant question concerns the selection of shoes.
There are several recommendations from stylists:
- when the dress is long (below the knee), wear shoes or sandals with high, thin heels;
- when the dress is youthful and short, wear ankle boots or platform sandals;
- when the dress is baggy, wear sports sandals or sneakers in the same color;
- For business attire, only formal classic shoes are suitable.
Shoes are selected according to tone. They should be at least 1-2 tones darker than the dress. If there are accessories, then shoes are selected to match them, and not to match the main outfit.
A separate fashion section is dedicated to the dress with open shoulders. The images with it are very delicate and feminine. But such a cut is considered independent. If the style is complemented by openwork sleeves, flashy additional accents are abandoned. And the variety of options provides opportunities to choose an outfit for any event.
Video about open dresses
Dress with open shoulders and sleeves - how to sew: