Thanks to detailed master classes, even a novice needlewoman will be able to sew a practical and comfortable bra without underwire. Provided that the pattern is constructed correctly, it is possible to create not only a classic bodice, but also an original swimsuit or sports top.
The choice of suitable fabric depends on the final purpose of the product. Cotton, guipure, and knitwear are perfect for everyday underwear. For sports tops and swimsuits, it is best to buy a fabric with a high elasticity index. You can also use linen, lace, and mixed fabrics. The key to success is to prepare a pattern that will make the bra beautiful, stylish, and comfortable.
Materials and tools
A bra without underwire (the pattern for sewing underwear should be selected taking into account the individual features of the figure of the woman who will wear the finished product) can be sewn in a few days. At the first stage, you need to prepare all the necessary tools and materials.
Experienced needlewomen note the fact that to sew a bra you need to prepare:
- Pencil.
- Paper.
- A measuring tape to take measurements.
- Safety pins.
- Scissors.
- Needles.
- Threads for basting.
- A sewing machine for finishing the product.
To sew the most comfortable, practical and beautiful bra, you need to buy special fittings. For example, length adjusters, clasps, straps. You should choose only high-quality parts. The final choice of fittings depends on the imagination and personal wishes of the needlewoman. For sewing bras, it is recommended to choose breathable, moisture-permeable materials. The fabric should not provoke the development of an allergic reaction and the appearance of rashes on the skin.
The inner part of the underwear can be made of cotton or modern synthetic fabrics with a high hygroscopicity index. The outer part of the bra can be made of different materials. From synthetic fabrics, you can choose elastane, microfiber, tactel or lycra. You can combine elastane with polyamide. To make a stylish, sophisticated bra, you can use lace, silk, satin.
In this case, the following nuances should be taken into account:
- For allergy sufferers, nursing mothers and elderly women, it is better to choose cotton for sewing bras.
- Satin and chiffon are perfect for sewing elegant lingerie.
- For everyday wear, a bra can be made from elastane, cotton and microfiber.
- An erotic bodice can be made from lace, silk or chiffon.
If too stretchy fabric is used to sew underwear, the finished product will not last long, which is why it is better to give preference to thick knitwear. Additionally, the bra can be decorated with rhinestones, sequins, beads and other decorative elements.
Types and models
Bras without underwires are in great demand among those women who like to feel as comfortable as possible throughout the day, but at the same time make sure that their underwear supports their breasts. Improved products are equipped with wide adjustable straps and a practical fastener on the back. To sew a bra that will meet all the requirements, you need to decide on a model, take measurements correctly and prepare a pattern.
There are several models of bras without underwire:
- Unloading. Such bras are in demand among women with large breasts. During the day, a heavy bust puts a strain on the spine and shoulders, causing back pain. A woman may also experience discomfort in the thoracic spine. Wearing a bra that relieves the load helps reduce the risk of developing osteochondrosis and other complications. This bra model is characterized by a deep, maximally closed cup. This bra is made of microfiber, thick fabric, and knitwear. The bra is equipped with wide, soft straps that do not cut into the skin.
- Supportive. A support bra is perfect for a large, heavy bust. This bra has a special cut. The product is equipped with a side insert that goes into the strap, due to which additional support for the chest is achieved. The cups are made soft, dense, which can be of a complex cut or seamless. For additional fixation of the bust, there is a high insert between the cups.
- Soft a bra without underwire for everyday wear. This bra can be worn even after breast surgery. A soft cotton bra is no less popular among nursing women. The product can be made in the form of a wide top.
- Sports. This type of bra holds the breasts well during sports. The larger the breasts, the deeper the sports bra should be to prevent stretching of the ligaments and skin. Such bras are made of thick multi-layer knitwear that does not stretch well. High-quality sports underwear has wide, non-elastic straps. A wide belt should be located under the breasts to take all the load.
- Lace bras without underwire are available in the form of a bustier (short narrow top). The bodice of this category is made exclusively of lace. This model of bras without underwire is ideal for women with small breasts.
- Push-up. The bra can be thin or voluminous enough to give the bust the missing fullness. A bra with thin foam inserts is perfect for women with different breast shapes. Thanks to such a bra, the shape of the mammary glands will become more beautiful and symmetrical. A bra made of denser foam allows you to slightly lift and enlarge the breast.
The color of the bra should match the main clothes. The most common are: white, black, beige, red. Transparent underwear made of tulle materials with lace elements is at the peak of popularity. Such a bra is suitable for a romantic date and an evening walk in an open dress.
Measures
A bra without underwire (the pattern can be constructed only after taking measurements, which are immediately transferred to paper) can be sewn independently if you follow all the recommendations described in the master class. It is recommended to take all necessary measurements in a thin bra without foam rubber. If the chest does not need correction, then it is best to take measurements on a naked body or wearing a tight-fitting T-shirt. In this case, the measuring tape should fit tightly to the body.
To sew a bra you will need the following measurements:
- Bust. Measurements are taken at the most prominent points of the bust. The measuring tape should run along the center of the chest, in the middle of the shoulder blades and under the arms. According to Russian standards, this is how the bra size is determined.
- To measure the underbust, place the measuring tape so that it runs along the bottom edge of the bra.
- Distance between bust centers.
- Bust Height: To take measurements, measure the distance from the shoulder to the highest point of the bust.
- Chest width. You need to measure the distance between the nipples.
The data obtained can be used to independently sew comfortable, practical, beautiful bras of various models. A bra without underwire (the pattern will be correctly constructed only if all the necessary measurements were initially taken and the cup size was determined) is one of the most comfortable models of women's underwear, since it does not constrict the chest, does not interfere with free breathing and can be worn daily.
The cup size may fluctuate depending on bloating and hormone levels, which is why it is recommended to take measurements only on favorable days when you feel well. 95% of women have one breast larger than the other, which is why when constructing a pattern, you need to rely on the parameters of the larger breast. To correctly determine the cup size, you need to subtract the underbust from the chest circumference.
The obtained results are compared with the table:
| Difference between bust and underbust (cm) | Cup size |
| 12 | A |
| 14 | B |
| 16 | C |
| 18 | D |
| 20 | E |
| 22 | F |
| 24 | G |
For example, the chest circumference is 102 cm, and the underbust circumference is 83 cm. The cup size is calculated as follows: 102-83=19 or D.
Building a Basic Pattern for a Wire-Free Bra
To sew a bra without underwires, one of the old bras you have can be used as the most suitable pattern. But the ideal product will only be obtained if the needlewoman starts to construct the pattern from scratch. A dress pattern can be used as a base, but if you don’t have one, you can try to construct the bodice yourself.
To avoid common mistakes, you need to follow the following sequence of actions:
- The template should be aligned with the left edge of the paper.
- Trace the back of the bodice.
- From the middle of the back along the chest line, you should set aside a segment that will correspond to the half-girth of the chest. As a result, you can mark a point that will indicate the middle of the front part of the future bra.
- The pattern of the shelf should be placed on the drawing in such a way that the lines of the back and the shelf coincide as much as possible. The point where the chest line and the middle of the shelf touch should coincide with the middle of the front of the bra being made.
- Trace the front part of the bodice. The side lines of the front and back are superimposed on each other by the amount of the ease allowance (the amount that regulates the degree of fit of the garment to the body), which must be taken into account in the basic pattern.
- When placing the back and front pieces together, an area should be formed in which the side line of the bodice being made needs to be drawn.
- The chest dart solution on the armhole side needs to be expanded 2 times, as well as the waist dart solution on the shelf pattern.
- The length of the waist dart on the back should be increased by 2.5 cm upwards. After the manipulations performed, the solution of the waist dart should become 2 times larger. If the cups are larger than size B, then the darts should be widened even more.
- All the marked points need to be connected together and the straps marked.
- You can use tracing paper to transfer the contours of the product.
- It is necessary to mark the main chest line and the offset side lines on the prepared pattern.
- On the back of the bodice, it is necessary to close the waist dart. On the upper edge of the back, an angle should be formed, which should be increased so that the transition between the straps and the back is smooth. This point can be ignored if the bodice should be without straps.
- The angle should be smoothed out at the bottom of the back. The area between the side line and the chest dart should be smooth.
- The width of the upper and lower parts of the bodice along the side lines must be measured. If the width of the product has changed after the adjustments have been made, then it is recommended to shift the chest line on the back pattern, since only in this case will it be possible to achieve the original values.
- The bust darts need to be closed.
If thin fabric is used to sew the bodice or if you need to make the top of the swimsuit, then it is recommended to make the side line in the middle.
Additionally, the side line can be shifted forward so that the product better supports the chest. For this purpose, you need to measure the exact distance from the center of the chest to the middle of the shelf. The resulting value must be set aside from the center of the chest to the left and put a point through which a line should be drawn (perpendicular to the bust line).
The line should be inclined by 10 mm towards the middle of the shelf. Thanks to these actions, the bra will fix the breasts well.
How to sew a bra?
If you have a suitable pattern, sewing a bodice will not take much time. Before starting work, you need to prepare not only the fabric, but also all the necessary sewing tools.
To sew the bodice, it is recommended to follow the following sequence of actions:
- Place the existing pattern elements onto the prepared piece of fabric and secure them with pins.
- Use sharp scissors to cut out all the elements from the fabric to obtain patterns ready for further work.
- All the parts need to be sewn together sequentially. Additionally, the product can be decorated with various accessories. For example, bows, beads, sequins,
The pattern blanks are carefully cut out along the marked lines and applied to the fabric to obtain ready-made patterns. The position of the lines can be marked with a simple pencil or chalk, as this will help to avoid common mistakes when sewing. The halves of the cups are attached from the inside. Sew with a zigzag stitch. The inner side of the bodice is left untreated for a while if the finished product is to contain foam inserts.
Only after they are installed can the edge be sewn. If the belt and the back of the future bra are not a single piece, then they need to be sewn together so that the stitching is on the side. The pieces are fixed with safety pins and sewn. If the straps are removable, then a special loop will be needed into which a hook can be inserted. This element of underwear should be located on the upper part of the cup.
Available pieces of material are suitable for sewing loops. The straps can be made from elastic. You can also buy ready-made fittings in a specialized store. In this case, the hooks are inserted into place and the halves of the product are sewn together. At the final stage, it remains to decide where the fasteners will be located. To fix them, you should mark the location of the hooks on both halves of the back.
The hooks are placed on a separate piece of fabric that has several small pockets. The base is marked on the remaining fabric and the detail is cut out. It is best to make several overlays that will serve as pockets. They need to be sewn on overlapping, placing the hooks inside. On the other half of the back, a small insert should be made for the hook. After this, it remains to check the quality of the seams and try on the finished bra.
A novice seamstress can use a trial version. A ready-made pattern will do for this, which can be cut out on the available fabric. All the details need to be basted in order to try on the product. Due to this, it will be possible to adjust the final model of the bra and eliminate errors. Before sewing underwear, it is necessary to carry out wet-heat treatment of the fabric so that in the future it will be possible to avoid shrinkage after washing the finished product.
If lace material is used, then in the process of sewing the bodice, you need to monitor the location of the lace. It is easier to use an existing bodice to create a pattern. To do this, a sheet of soft paper is applied to the bodice, which is most comfortable and supports the bust well, and outlined along the seams.
To get the desired result, you need to follow the direction of the seams so that the finished product has the desired shape. When all the parts of the bodice are prepared and drawn, you need to decide on the exact method in which they will be sewn together.
For example:
- You can cut out all the bodice parts separately, using a 5 mm seam allowance, and then sew them together from the wrong side.
- Transfer the prepared pattern onto the fabric, leaving 5 mm allowances at the seams. The darts should converge in the center, forming a triangle, the apex of which will be located at the nipple.
After these manipulations, the straps and elastic band under the chest are sewn on.
Processing technology
To sew a beautiful, comfortable bra yourself, you need to not only prepare a pattern and consistently sew all the elements of the product, but also master the technology of processing the bodice.
Experienced needlewomen recommend taking into account the following nuances:
- Before finally sewing together all the elements of the future bra, you should do some light basting to assess the appearance of the product and eliminate any possible flaws.
- The halves of the cups should be sewn together with a zigzag stitch.
- If the bra model includes foam inserts, then only after they are installed can the edges of the product be sewn with a zigzag stitch.
- Only the zigzag stitch is used to process the cuts.
You can decorate the seams with beautiful fabric or lace. It is better to give preference to natural materials that will not provoke the development of an allergic reaction.
Tips for Designing and Sewing Bras without Wire
A bra without underwire (the pattern of a bodice for a large bust is created taking into account that the finished product should support the bust well and model its shape) is a universal item that serves as protection from contact with clothing. The most comfortable, original and beautiful bra can be obtained if you sew it yourself, following all the recommendations described in the master class.
The process of making lingerie is distinguished by its simplicity, since in 98% of cases difficulties arise only at the stage of preparing the pattern. In order for the finished product to meet all the stated requirements, it is necessary to take into account the advice regarding the design and sewing of a bodice without bones.
For example:
- It is best to take measurements without clothes. If you take measurements in a sweater or jacket, then the final figures may be erroneous.
- When working with a pattern, remember to leave seam allowances. If you have no experience in sewing bodices, it is recommended to leave about 1 cm.
- It is not recommended to use nylon, as this material retains moisture and does not allow air to pass through well, which can cause skin irritation. To sew 1 bodice, you will need 30 cm of fabric, but on condition that the roll width is 1.5 m.
- If elastic material is used to make a bra, then the first thing you need to do is determine the degree of its stretch in order to take into account all the nuances in the cutting process.
- Needles should be purchased with the mark "knitwear" or "stretch" No. 70-80. The threads should be highly durable and thin so that they do not cause discomfort while wearing a bra.
- A zigzag stitch is used to process the edge of the product, and other parts can be processed with an overlock or sewn in a standard way using a machine. The stitch length should be within 2-2.5 mm.
- If you don't have the necessary experience to make a bodice, you can use guipure, which looks romantic, and there is no need to process the edges, since the fabric has beautiful coupons.
- For sewing the back of the bodice, it is better to use a material with a high elasticity index. It is impossible to finally determine the length of the back on the patterns, since everything depends on the quality of the fabric and the type of fastener used. The exact length of the back can only be found out after trying on the product.
Bra straps can be combined (piping/ribbon + elastic) or solid (elastic only). Additionally, it is necessary to use length adjusters, which should consist of a clamp and a ring.
Tips for better support
For maximum breast support, it is better to sew the back of the bra from an elastic material containing at least 40% cotton. The larger the bust size, the wider the back piece should be. The clasp should be wide to ensure a good fit and comfortable wearing of the bra. The width of the straps should be within 4-6 cm.
Otherwise, narrow straps will deform the shoulder muscles, disrupt blood circulation in the arms, which may cause discomfort and increased fatigue in women.
It is recommended to sew large size bras from dense fabrics, as bras from thin materials (for example, knitwear, guipure) will not be able to provide the necessary support for the bust. Bra cups should be lined. It is necessary to select a fabric that will match the material of the top of the cup as much as possible (the density and elasticity indicator are taken into account).
After correctly determining the bra size, preparing all the necessary tools and constructing a pattern, even a novice needlewoman will be able to sew a practical, original bodice. The instructions and tips described in the master classes will help you avoid common mistakes.
Numerous reviews from women confirm that with a responsible approach, you can sew a bra without bones in 1-2 evenings. The finished product will perfectly emphasize the natural beauty of a woman's chest, while the bra will not squeeze or cause discomfort while wearing it.
Video about the pattern of a bra without wires
Step-by-step instructions for sewing a bra without underwire: