The hidden zipper is reliable, practical and convenient, and in its ability to disguise itself as a regular seam, neither buttons nor snaps can compete with it. The "invisible zipper" demonstrates all its advantages on a skirt, being sewn in according to all the rules of tailoring.
Concealed zipper device
A hidden invisible zipper is the best option for a fastener in all cases where it needs to be made invisible. It is used when sewing clothes from light fabrics, such as skirts. It differs from its "visible" counterparts by the location of the teeth on the reverse side of the tape. A hidden zipper is softer and more elastic.
Structurally, it consists of the following elements:
- textile tape (base) with sealed upper and lower edges;
- plastic links attached to the tape;
- slider (dog, runner) connecting and separating links;
- keychain (pendant) – a detail of the zipper that makes it easier to use and secure;
- lower and upper slider limiters.
Plastic (links, lock) is usually used to make concealed zippers; models with metal locks are less common. The most popular material for the base tape is nylon, which is soft, durable, and flexible.
Selection criteria and types of hidden zippers
When purchasing a concealed zipper, it is important to remember that they all differ in several parameters.
When choosing the right option, you should rely on the following criteria:
| Criterion | Description |
| Zipper length | It is selected depending on the desired length of the fastener. There is a simple rule: the length of the zipper should be 2 cm longer than the length of the cut into which it will be sewn. The shortest length for a hidden zipper is 12 cm, the longest is not limited: there are also zippers of 1.5 m. If there is no zipper of the required length, it is permissible to use an additional bracket, replacing the lower retainer. The bracket is installed on the zipper in the selected place, after which the rest of it is cut off. |
| Link type | According to this parameter, lightning is divided into: · spiral (twisted). The links are formed from a fishing line that is twisted into a spiral, flattened and secured to the tape. Spiral links give the zipper flexibility, they are more durable and resistant to bending, but they fail faster, since the fastening gradually peels off and the spiral comes off the base. Another disadvantage is the fear of high temperatures: if ironed carelessly with a hot iron, the spiral can melt and deform; · Tractor (traditional). In such a zipper, each link is a U-shaped tiny part, independently fixed on a nylon tape. This type of zippers is less flexible, but the loss of one link does not affect the functionality of the fastener. If the damaged area is at the bottom, it can be repaired by installing an additional retainer. |
| Size of links | Usually indicated by a number corresponding to the width of the lock tape in millimeters in a closed fastener. The higher this parameter, the more reliable the adhesion of the links, the greater the load the zipper can withstand. The choice of the optimal option depends on the thickness of the fabric on which the zipper will be installed: the thinner it is, the smaller the size of the links should be. |
| Slider view | The main differences between zipper pullers are in the locking mechanism. According to this feature, zippers are divided into: · haberdashery (indicated by the abbreviation N/L) – do not have a locking mechanism. While the zipper is new, it stays closed solely by friction, but later, as the teeth wear out, its behavior becomes unpredictable; · semi-automatic (P/L) – due to the presence of a special pin, they fix the clasp in the fastened position when the lock tongue is lowered down; · automatic (A/L) – capable of fixing the lock not only at the top, but also in any other position. For a skirt, using a haberdashery lock that can spontaneously open at any moment is undesirable. At the same time, the capabilities of an automatic lock are unlikely to be fully utilized. The best option is a semi-automatic. Also, when buying, you should pay attention to the lock pendant, which can have different configurations and sizes. Mandatory condition: it should be strong enough, have a comfortable shape, hold well in the lock shackle, and easily turn up and down. |
| Tape density | This parameter is measured in g/m2. The higher the density, the more reliable and durable the zipper. At the same time, high density makes the fastener excessively rigid, which is undesirable for clothes made of delicate fabrics. |
| Lightning color | The invisible zipper should have a color that is as close as possible to the color of the product into which it will be sewn, or if there are 2-3 or more colors, it should match one of them. Twisted zippers offer more color options because the plastic fishing line that makes up the teeth can be given almost any color. |
| Lightning quality | A poor-quality clasp can ruin an otherwise perfect item and the mood of its owner. To prevent this from happening, when buying, you need to make sure that: · the runner moves smoothly, without jerking, does not jam and does not leave open areas; · the lock is securely fixed in the closed position, but opens easily; · the links are located evenly, strictly at right angles to the edge of the base tape, at the same distance from each other, and are held firmly on the tape; · the tape is uniform in color, thickness and density, has neat, carefully sealed edges; · the links when fastened form an even strip running strictly along the middle of the base tape; · the zipper is absolutely smooth, has no sharp elements that can cause injury, and does not bend in “waves”. The following functions are not needed in a zipper for a skirt: · the presence of a water-repellent coating, thanks to which the zipper does not allow moisture to pass through; · separable zipper – completely dividing into 2 halves; · reverse – zippers with reverse are 2-way, that is, the slider can be moved to the wrong side; · double slider – the presence of 2 runners makes it possible to open the zipper both from the top and from the bottom. |
| Manufacturer | A low-quality zipper, even if it has successfully passed the test, may, after working for some time, start to jam, unzip on its own, lose its “teeth,” or even fail due to a torn base tape or broken slider. To avoid such a situation, it is advisable to buy Japanese zippers (with the YKK marking on the tongue) or Swiss (RIRI). They are considered leaders in the production of fasteners of this type, they will cost more, but will last much longer than a cheap Chinese analogue. Among domestic manufacturers, the company has proven itself well. Alyzip, releasing lightning of all kinds. |
Materials and tools
The concealed zipper must be sewn onto the skirt correctly.
To do this, in addition to the zipper itself, you will need to prepare tools and materials that will help in the work and make it possible to do it as carefully as possible:
- special foot for sewing machine;
- thread to baste the zipper and then sew it in;
- scissors;
- tailor's chalk and a ruler to mark the position of the zipper;
- tape measure – to take all necessary measurements;
- single-sided adhesive tape.
The use of adhesive tape is essential if the zipper is sewn into a knitted garment, into a bias-cut piece, or is used on very thin fabric, as it will prevent it from stretching and will help sew the zipper evenly, without distortions.
Without adhesive tape, the fabric will inevitably stretch behind the foot and then shrink, gathering the zipper into unsightly folds. The second function of adhesive tape is to prevent the edge of the fabric from fraying.
What is special about the foot for a hidden zipper?
You can sew a concealed zipper to a skirt only with a special foot.
There are several varieties of them:
| Foot type | Description |
| Universal double-sided | It is designed to work with regular zippers and produces a line that is 2-3 mm from the lock seam. If you want to make the seam narrower, you need to bend the edges of the links with your fingers. This will require some experience, without which the seam will be uneven. |
| Single-sided or horn-shaped | Allows you to get closer to the links, but has a significant drawback: one side of the zipper is sewn from top to bottom, and the other from bottom to top. This can lead to the fabric shifting (especially thin or knitted) and the appearance of unsightly folds near the zipper. |
| "Little boat" | A Chinese product of appropriate quality: according to customer reviews, it does not perform its functions and only complicates the work. |
| Specialized foot for sewing in a concealed zipper | It has 2 grooves on the sole, one of which is designed to fix the right side of the zipper, the other - the left. Depending on which side is sewn, one or the other groove is used. The foot itself performs all the necessary operations (fixes the zipper and bends its links), thanks to which even an inexperienced seamstress gets an even, beautiful line, located as close to the links as possible. Today it is the best option. |
When purchasing a specialized foot, it is necessary to take into account that they may also differ:
- by material of manufacture: metal and plastic. Provided that high-quality plastic is used, they are equivalent;
- by mounting method: each foot is designed to work on a specific model of sewing machine. There are also products with a universal mounting mechanism.
Preparing for work
You can sew a concealed zipper to a skirt to the seams of the garment - side or back. If there are none, you will need to make a cut in the fabric.
Before sewing in the zipper, you must perform the following operations:
- Finish the seam (cut edges) using an overlock.
- Iron the area of fabric where the fastener will be sewn. If the fabric is prone to shrinkage, it is recommended to wet it first.
- Iron the zipper. If its base is cotton tape, it is also recommended to wet it first (decate).
- In the places of future seams, glue the fabric (thin, knitted, fraying) with single-sided adhesive tape.
- If the zipper is not going to be inserted into the seam, it is recommended to first glue the desired section of fabric, and then mark and make a cut: this way it will be more even and neat.
It is recommended that a novice seamstress first sew the zipper to the seam using a regular foot, setting the longest stitch length: this stitch is needed to prevent the zipper from shifting and is subsequently removed.
If the preparation is complete, a specialized foot is installed on the machine and the sewing of the zipper itself begins.
Algorithm for sewing in hidden zippers for different skirt models
The advantage of a hidden zipper is that it is invisible on the fabric. Skirts with them look like a single piece of fabric, and therefore professionals often use hidden zippers in their products. The technology of sewing into different models has its own features that you need to know.
With a belt
You can sew a concealed zipper to a skirt when the garment is almost ready, the side seams are stitched and the belt is attached. All that remains is to connect everything by sewing in a concealed zipper so that it reaches the belt. Before sewing in such a zipper, you must first fix it with pins. For stitching, use thin needles that do not leave marks on the fabric. Seam allowances should remain minimal.
Ideally, the edges of the allowances coincide with the edge of the zipper tape. When using a metal fastener, it is better to make an indentation from the edge of 5 mm to prevent the fabric from getting into the teeth. If a regular zipper is used, then you need to sew on a button, but it is much more beautiful to make an invisible connection.
To sew such a zipper onto a skirt with a belt, you need to do the following:
- Turn the belt inside out, making a mark, stepping back 1 mm from the seam and leaving allowances. The distance from the edge of the part to the mark should correspond to the width of the zipper. The free end of the belt is turned up and fixed in the desired position with pins. This will make the seam less thick, allowing you to sew the zipper evenly.
- When working, the zipper keychain should be facing the seamstress, and the edges of the tape, on the contrary, should be in a position away from you. Then you need to unfasten the zipper and turn one half to the other side.
- Apply one of the halves to the fold of the belt area and pin it at the same level or slightly lower. Then baste it to the product. The basting seam can be done at any level. It is important to remember that such a zipper is sewn to the front side and only then turned inward.
- After finishing basting, sew the seam on the machine. This is done using a special foot. You should work carefully so as not to catch the teeth of the lock. If this happens, the seam must be ripped out and redone.
- Once the zipper has been sewn in to the waist, turn the skirt inside out and zip up, making sure the ends of the zipper remain level.
- Bring the line to the end. The ends of the tape are hidden in the belt. It is turned inside out and carefully basted. Then you can baste part of the belt to the skirt with a blind stitch.
Without a belt
This option is considered the simplest.
It is enough to do the following:
- Sew all the skirt pieces together and, after marking, baste the fastener.
- After checking the correctness of the connection, iron the resulting seam inward, placing the zipper with the keychain down and baste first one part. Then, having closed the fastener, baste the 2nd part.
- After opening the zipper, check the correctness of the connection. It is stitched first across, then a seam is smoothly carried out along the left side. At the end, the runner is lowered down. The right side is stitched in the same way.
- Hem and process the upper edge. The tape from the fastener is hidden under the waistband or simply processed together with the allowances with an overlock.
In most cases, it will be more interesting if the zipper remains unnoticeable. A hidden zipper is the best option.
Its sewing is carried out as follows:
- The skirt is turned to the front side so that the seam is in front of the eyes. The lock is applied to it, turning the keychain towards itself. The zipper is unzipped. One side of the tape is turned to the front side, joining the seam face to face.
- The free edge of the tape should extend slightly beyond the allowance of the product, the limiter should be on the same line with the top seam of the product. Pin it with pins and baste the seam in this position. After that, it will be easy to sew it on.
- Sew the second segment, turning the skirt inside out. First, baste it, and then, after checking the correct placement, sew it. The upper parts are sewn along the waistline when the belt seam is made.
Seamless
A product that has no seams requires special attention. The zipper is sewn into it at the first stage of work. This is necessary so that the threads of the fabric do not twist, and the material itself lies flat. For this, a special line is made in the waist area. Then, in the area of the back seam, marks are made 2-2.5 cm above the location of the future zipper fastenings. The seam is sewn to them immediately. After this, the remaining parts are swept and the seams are ironed, including the hem of the allowances for the zipper.
It is sewn on as follows:
- Place the front side of the piece on the seam so that the keychain faces down. The top rivets are located near the seam at the waist.
- Use pins to attach the tape to the seams, making sure that it is positioned evenly and does not shift.
- The seam is made close to the beginning of the teeth, leaving a small gap so that the thread does not catch on them when laying the machine stitch.
- After removing the basting from the stitching of the seams of the skirt itself, you need to unfasten the zipper and lower the runner to the end of the seam.
- The zipper is attached.
With folds
If the skirt has box pleats, the zipper can be hidden in one of the seams. This works if the cut consists of 2 parts. When the fabric is one, the fastener is made water from the layings, the size of which is pre-calculated. For thin and flowing fabrics, it is better to choose the option when it will be in the side or back seam of the product. The main thing is that the seam itself gets inside the fold.
With lining
The main work is carried out as usual, depending on whether the product is with or without a seam. Then the lining and skirt are folded with the right sides inward. The lining itself is slightly shifted so as not to get caught in the zipper. After this, the lining seam is stitched to the sewn-in fastener by basting, stepping back from the edge by 5 mm. The 2nd seam stitches it completely. This method is suitable for skirts made of dense material, such as knitwear or drape, where there is often a lining.
Important stages of such work are:
- Pre-treatment of lining edges.
- Properly basting it with the skirt.
- Using a blind stitch to baste to the garment and sew to the zipper.
Into an open seam
To do this, unfasten the fastener and place it face down on the skirt allowances. Having tacked it in, you need to match the upper edges of the zipper and the seam at the waist. Both edges are tacked separately, starting from the top. Using a special foot, lay the seam closer to the teeth. At the end, stitch the lower segment of the seam under the zipper. The allowances are ironed well, and the belt is stitched on top.
In a closed seam
The peculiarity of this method is that the entire product is sewn first and only the zipper slit remains open. It is sewn on at the very end. Those who are just beginning to master the secrets of sewing need to know the rules for sewing fasteners into any products. This will make them look neat, and when closing the zipper, the fabric will not get stuck in the teeth, threatening to tear the work. It is important not only to do the work correctly, but also to select a fastener in accordance with the material and style of the skirt.
Video on how to sew a hidden zipper to a skirt
How to sew a hidden zipper into a skirt: